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If you consider vermicomposting at home, a large selection of bins is available in the market; you can also use adapted containers. These can be made from old plastic or metal containers, wood or even Styrofoam. The design of vermicomposting bin depends on the place of the bin or on the feeding method of the worms. When it comes to worm bin construction, some materials are more desirable than others. For example, metal containers easily conduct heat, tend to rust and may even release heavy metals into the vermicompost, while some cedars, e.g. Yellow cedar and Redwood contain resinous oils that may harm the worms. However, Western Red Cedar boasts superior longevity in composting conditions. Hemlock is another great choice for vermicomposting bins, as it is inexpensive and rot-resistant.
Vermicomposting bins need holes or mesh net for aeration. Sometimes holes or a spout is added in the bottom to drain excess liquid into a collection tray. Bins made from recycled or semi-recycled plastic are perfect, however, they need additional drainage, since they do not absorb water. Wooden vermicomposting bins will need to be replaced, because they are not resistant to rotting. Domestic small-scale vermicomposting is an excellent method to turn kitchen waste into soil enriching additives when space is limited. Small-scale vermicomposting requires no additional physical efforts, e.g. turning the bin, since worms easily decompose organic matter. Red wigglers (Eisenia fetidae) dwell in the surface (they are called epigeic) and have a symbiotic relation with microbes, which makes the perfect conditions for decomposing food waste. Such common earthworms as Lumbricus terrestris burrow deep (they are called anecic) and therefore are not suited to be used in closed systems. Other species, for example, molds, insects and other worms also contribute in vermicomposting process.